We adore natural fragrance, and everything that it brings to our senses and wellbeing. Natural is clearly better for you and for the planet. But when it comes to sensitive skin and bodies, how does natural stack up?
What we know about the natural vs synthetic fragrance debate is that natural is coming out on top when it comes to issues like hormone disruption, headache, anxiety, migraine, body composition, neurological conditions and more. Synthetic scent is fast falling out of favour as consumers seek a better alternative that cares for their wellbeing while still helping us to smell incredible.
But natural is not a panacea. (Panacea: noun: a solution or remedy for all difficulties or diseases.) In the interests of transparency (always), it's important that we understand the challenges that natural fragrance might present to some people.
FRAGRANCE ALLERGENS
We all understand what it's like to go toe-to-toe with nature, either on a warm, windy day with hayfever so bad you'd rather crawl back into bed thankyou very much, or in a tussle with poison ivy or stinging nettles that just won't quit; make no mistake, sometime nature is not our friend!
Knowing this, it makes no sense to assume that natural scent won't cause a reaction is some people. If you have an allergy to oranges, for example, it's not sensible to assume you won't react to a perfume or lotion that contains citrus extracts. For some of us, we may have sensitivites to ingredients we have never come into contact with before, but not yet know it.
So if natural perfume is so great, why might I have a skin reaction?
It's all about the chemistry. What is important to understand is that nature invented chemistry. It's not chemicals per se that cause the problems we often discuss here, but rather synthetically manufactured chemicals. A molecule of natural rose oil, for example, is made up of around 400 different chemicals - natural chemicals put together in a particlar, intentional way by nature. Some of these natural chemicals might trigger allergies in some people. This is what is referred to as allergens. Allergens are simply molecules or whole ingredients that are more likely that others to cause a reaction. Examples could be citrus oil, oakmoss, or ylang ylang. Or single molecules such as citronellal, eugenol or benzyl benzoate.
You'll see these listed on the ingredients panel of most cosmetics and perfumes. EU cosmetic legislation requires a list of potential allergens to be declared on the packaging. That's not to say you will react; but if you are highly sensitive, or you have a an allergy to a particlar substance, you'll get a heads-up.
FRAGRANCE ALLERGENS IN NATURAL VS SYNTHETIC SCENT
Allergens are not only found in natural perfume; synthetic scent comes under the same legilsation, and has to make the same declaration about allergens. The potentially allergenic molecules can be naturally-occuring components of whole essential oils (such as citronellal in rose oil or citrus), or synthetically-manufactured single molecule ingredients used in the formula.
So is there a difference in your allergy risk when it comes to natural vs synthetic? Research shows that there is. Nature in its wisdom offers some protection from allergic reaction by putting together its chemicals in such a way that one molecule can actually counteract a reaction from another. We see this in many foods, like potatoes, tomatoes and eggplant, which contain potentially toxic glycoalkaloids, but also high levels of flavonoids which act as antioxidants and counteract the negative affects of potentially harmful molecules. So using a fragrance that utilises whole essential oils rather than just single scent molecules can be protective against allergic reaction.
But this is not a guarantee you won't have an allergy to natural perfume: a patch test is always the best option.
INGREDIENT TESTING
You'd be forgiven for assuming that any perfume you can by at a reputable retailer must be fully tested for safety, which gives us all a sense of security around allergies and other potential reactions. But contrary to popular belief, only around 25% of ingredients ever go through safety testing, and even then the focus is on allergies, rather than on health effects, let alone long-term safety concerns.
The EU Cosmetic Regulation Annex III (or the EU Allergens List) identifies 26 substances sometimes included the fragrance component of leave-on products that can potentially cause immediate skin irritations (such as a rash) and allergies up to 24 hours later (like redness and swelling.) But this is not a list of what is or isn't safe for your body. It's simply looking at what might cause you to have itchy skin, redness, swelling or hives.
“The biggest issue with the EU Cosmetics Regulation list is that nobody's looking at the long-term health effects of any of these ingredients, let alone those that aren’t on the allergens list.”
- Liz Cook, ONE SEED founder & perfumer
WHAT IS THE ACUAL RISK?
The Scientific Community of Consumer Safety (SCCS) that suggested between 1 and 3 percent of the population are sensitised to substances still widely-used in fragrances. (As a side-note, around 33 percent of us experience uncomfortable side-effects from synthetic fragrance, such as nausea, headache and migraine.)
So while it's important to be aware that you may have a reaction even to a natural perfume, the risk is still low.
Liz Cook says that in the 15+ years of ONE SEED, there have been only 25 reported reactions to our natural perfumes, most of which were localised itchy skin.
WHAT TO DO IF YOU ARE MORE SENSITIVE THAN THE AVERAGE PERSON?
It's always important to patch test any new perfume or skincare product before you buy a full-size. Ideally, use the product in the crease of your elbow and leave it for 24 hours to make sure your body doesn't react.
There are also other steps you can take when it comes to sensitive skin and bodies.
Take a look at your overall toxic load and body burden. Some people who have suddenly found themselves more sensitive were not so for many years, so something has shifted in your body to bring it to were it is. Look closely at the products you use on your skin, in your home, and the foods you eat regularly. It may be that some of these have caused your body to reach a tipping point to where it can no longer sustain homeostasis (or balance), and at that point you may find you react to everything - both natural and synthetic - while your body cries out for attention.
If you are one of the 97-99% of people that don't suffer from allergic reactions or sensitivities, you can help keep it that way by avoiding unnecessary synthetics in your beauty and personal care routine, using natural cleaners and scents around your home, getting plenty of fresh air and sunlight, and eating diet that is as close to natural as possible.
