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Natural perfume ingredient focus: vanilla

January 14, 2017

Natural perfume ingredient focus: vanilla

Ahhh, vanilla. Just like that guy you dated in high school - loved by everyone but so unreliable. But more on that later...

(image of handsome high school jock borrowed from Pinterest)

Vanilla is a feature note in many, many perfumes, both natural and synthetic, and plays an amazing role as a smoother and rounding ingredient even when you don't know it's there.

For some, the thought of vanilla in perfume makes you think back to your days of The Body Shop Vanilla Perfume oil (remember that one?), and you really don't want to go back there. I mean, after all, no one actually wants to smell like a donut.

Vanilla in Modern Perfumery

Vanilla perfumes have come a long way, and rank among the most popular scents to this day, being included on the lineup from some amazing modern perfume houses, including Annik Goutal (Vanille Exquise), Tom Ford (Tobacco Vanille), Jo Malone (Vanilla & Anise) and Serg Lutens (un bois vanille).

The odour of vanilla can be found in both masculine and feminine fragrances, and the presence of vanilla doesn't always cause a perfume to be sweet; vanilla can be paired with green notes such as coriander (ONE SEED Seeker) or smoky notes such as tobacco (Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille) which take the edge of the sweetness, and vause the vanilla take a supporting role in a fragrance rather than a starring role.

Natural Vs Synthetic Vanilla

You may think its easy to tell natural vanilla apart from its synthetic version, but these days perfume ingredients are often very sophisticated and it's becoming more difficult to pick natural vs synthetic vanilla in a scent.

 

Natural vanilla in Perfume

So what are the differences? As with all natural ingredients, there is a lot of complexity in a natural vanilla, and a trained nose will detect nuances of woody and floral aroma, often musky tones or ambery notes. 
In addition, natural vanilla has aromatherapeutic benefits that the synthetic version does not possess: it is calmative and uplifting, a mood-booster, and beneficial for sleep.
There are several types of natural vanilla extract available to the natural perfumer, from the subtle, woody vanilla oleoresin, through to the candy-like vanilla c02 with its glorious floral qualities, and, our favourite, vanilla absolute, which displays divine woody  and smoky tones and adds suaveness to almost all types of scent without necessarily being detected.
Natural vanilla is extracted in a variety of ways from the seeds of the vanilla bean, and sometimes also utilises the vanilla pod itself, or even the flower. Natural vanilla extracts can vary in colour and viscosity, from the typical aqueous brown liquid we are used to seeing in the kitchen, through to an almost black honey-like product, and even a light golden extract.
image borrowed from www.gourmetsleuth.com

The vanilla crisis

The problem with natural vanilla is its cost.
Remember the vanilla crisis a few years back that left Vanilla Coke lovers in the dark? Well, its happening again, but on a larger scale this time. 
In vanilla's famous heartland, Madagascar, large-scale crop failure and apparent mismanagement has seen the cost of natural vanilla skyrocket over the past 12 months, with prices now up to 1000% higher than twelve months ago! (case in point: vanilla extract from our favourite supplier used to cost us $2.50 per ml, and now costs $10.50 per ml, if we can even get it!)
This has been a challenge for every industry using natural vanilla extracts, and has meant that many perfumers and chocolatiers, among others, have decided to utilise synthetic vanilla instead. It's an understandable decision. It's a challenge to run any business with an unreliable supply of ingredients. 
As for ONE SEED, we have considered temporarily withdrawing our fragrances that use large volumes of vanilla, or even a temporary price rise, but instead we have made the decision to keep things as they are, and ride out the storm. 

Synthetic Vanilla as a perfume ingredient

While the cost of natural vanilla is now fetching around $10,000 per kg, the cost of synthetic vanilla (a.k.a vanillin) is around $150 per kg! (or, in usable terms, $10 per gram vs 15 cents per gram!) Its easy to see why synthetic vanilla has appeal, especially in an era where synthetic fragrances can be of a high quality. However, when it comes to natural vs synthetic ingredients of any description, the difference is always in its complexity and the subtle nuances. Synthetic fragrance ingredients are typically linear and down change throughout the fragrance dry-down, whereas natural extracts are complex with rich odour profiles. In natural vanilla, for example, there are over 300 different flavours and fragrances detectable!
And for those of us who like to know exactly what's in our fragrances, food and household items, synthetic vanilla, like other chemically-created fragrance ingredients, may have unwanted effects on your health. (For more information about the potential health-effects of synthetic perfume, read our article Natural Perfume 101: Natural Vs Synthetic Scent).

The round up

Crisis or no crisis, vanilla is well and truly here to stay. The world demands it!
So vanilla-lovers rejoice. Your favourite fragrance is here to stay, one way or another.
Liz 
x
[Natural vanilla features in these fragrances from the ONE SEED range: Courage (vanilla oleoresin), Devotion (vanilla c02), Seeker (vanilla c02) and Bohemia (vanilla oeloresin and absolute) ].




2 Responses

Rosie
Rosie

May 17, 2017

The Body Shop Vanilla perfume was and is very popular. I’m not sure knocking it is good marketing, not when lots of people like vanilla scents because of hat perfume haha

Sean Mackness
Sean Mackness

April 28, 2017

Hi. I found this little blog whilst trying to find out if it would be possible to soak vanilla (the inner oil and seeds) in perfumers alcohol. Im brand new to perfume making, therefore any suggestions as to whether I could do this or not would be greatly appreciated.

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